Stop wasting water (and weekends) on a sprinkler system that isn’t doing its job
Common sprinkler problems we see in Caldwell (and what they usually mean)
A practical step-by-step checklist before you schedule a repair
Step 1: Confirm the basics (takes 2 minutes)
Step 2: Run one zone at a time and watch for patterns
Step 3: Check for the easiest fixes at the heads
Step 4: Know when it’s time to stop DIY
Repair vs. replace: what’s worth fixing?
| Symptom | Often caused by | Usually a good repair | When replacement makes sense |
|---|---|---|---|
| One head leaks or won’t pop | Cracked body, worn seal, clogged nozzle | Replace head/nozzle; adjust arc | Multiple heads on same zone are failing from age |
| Zone stuck on | Debris in valve, torn diaphragm, solenoid issue | Clean/rebuild valve; replace diaphragm/solenoid | Valve body is cracked/warped or repeatedly clogs |
| Low pressure in one zone | Leak, clog, too many heads, pinched line | Leak repair + nozzle/head matching | Zone was designed wrong and needs re-nozzling or re-zoning |
| Uneven coverage, dry stripes | Misalignment, wrong nozzle, mixed head types | Tune-up: align heads, correct nozzles, set run times | Old layout no longer fits landscaping changes |
Quick “Did you know?” sprinkler facts
A cracked head or broken riser may look minor, but it can quietly oversoak one spot while starving others.
If only one zone fails, checking the valve, solenoid, and wiring is usually more productive than replacing random heads.
A “foggy” spray pattern can mean pressure is too high or the nozzle is damaged—both reduce effective coverage.
