Category: Local Guides

Year-Round Lawn Maintenance in Nampa, Idaho: A Practical, Local-First Checklist for a Greener Yard

A simple plan that matches Treasure Valley weather, soils, and cool-season turf

In Nampa and across the Treasure Valley, most lawns are cool-season grasses (often Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescues). These grasses grow hardest in spring and fall, slow down in summer heat, and can look “tired” fast if watering, mowing, and fertilizing aren’t timed correctly. The good news: you don’t need complicated routines—just the right tasks at the right time. Below is a homeowner-friendly, month-by-month approach Barefoot Lawns uses to keep lawns thick, resilient, and comfortable to walk on.

Why timing matters in Nampa (and why “more” isn’t always better)

Our lawns don’t behave the same way year-round. Cool-season turf grows best when soil temps are roughly in the mid-50s to mid-60s °F, which is why spring and fall are your “make gains” seasons. Pushing heavy nitrogen too early in spring can lead to weak roots and summer stress. On the flip side, skipping fall work often leads to thin turf, more weeds, and a slower green-up next year.

Also, irrigation needs swing dramatically—many Treasure Valley lawns use about ~1 inch/week in cooler periods and up to ~2 inches/week during peak summer heat (from late May through mid-August), assuming little rainfall. Adjusting your sprinkler schedule to the season is one of the fastest ways to prevent brown patches, fungus pressure, and wasted water.

The Treasure Valley Lawn Maintenance Calendar (Boise–Meridian–Nampa friendly)

Season Primary goals What to do Common mistakes
Early Spring
(late Mar–Apr)		 Wake up turf, prevent summer annual weeds Clean up debris, sharpen mower blades, start mowing as needed, apply pre-emergent before crabgrass germination (often mid-March to early April in the Treasure Valley). Over-fertilizing early; watering too much when it’s still cool
Late Spring
(May–Jun)		 Build density, dial irrigation, target early weeds Fertilize when grass is actively growing, spot-treat broadleaf weeds, inspect irrigation coverage (dry corners are common), consider pest monitoring where damage has occurred before. Short mowing (scalping); uneven watering patterns
Summer
(late Jun–Aug)		 Stress management (heat + irrigation efficiency) Water deeply and early morning; keep mowing height higher; avoid herbicide applications on very hot days; watch for grub/irrigation-related stress. Night watering; heavy fertilizing during heat; mowing too low
Fall
(Sep–Nov)		 Root growth, repair, weed suppression Aeration (Sept/Oct), overseed if thin, fall fertilization (often late Sept–early Nov), and fall weed control/pre-emergent timing based on soil temps. Skipping aeration; missing fall fertilizer window
Winter
(Dec–Feb)		 Protect turf + plan ahead Limit foot traffic on frozen turf, plan spring services, and make sure irrigation is winterized (blow-outs help prevent freeze damage). Walking on frozen grass; ignoring sprinkler winterization

Note: exact timing varies year to year. In the Treasure Valley, crabgrass can begin germinating when soil temps reach roughly 55–60°F, which often lines up around mid-March to early April. Cool-season lawns also tend to use roughly ~1 inch/week in cooler spring/fall periods and up to ~2 inches/week in peak summer heat, depending on rainfall and soil type.

Step-by-step: a strong weekly routine (the “no surprises” approach)

1) Mow for root strength (not just appearance)

Keep blades sharp and avoid cutting too short. Taller turf shades the soil, reduces water loss, and helps crowd out weeds. As a rule, never remove more than about 1/3 of the blade in a single mow—especially during summer.

2) Water deeply, then let it breathe

In Nampa heat, shallow daily watering often creates weak, surface-level roots and can encourage disease. Aim for fewer, deeper watering days and adjust runtime seasonally. Early morning watering is typically best; if you see mushrooms or a “sour” smell, it’s a sign you may be overwatering or watering at the wrong time.

3) Fertilize with the season (spring restraint, fall emphasis)

Cool-season turf can need a broad range of nitrogen depending on grass type and “how perfect” you want it, but the bigger takeaway is timing: avoid heavy early-spring nitrogen pushes, and prioritize fall feeding for roots and next-season density. A balanced, planned program beats random “green-up” applications every time.

4) Weed control works best before weeds show up

Pre-emergents stop many annual weeds by preventing germination—especially important for crabgrass. Fall is also a powerful weed-control season because many weeds are moving energy into roots; targeting them then can reduce spring weed pressure.

5) Aerate when lawns can recover quickly

Compacted Treasure Valley soils are common—especially with kids, pets, and backyard gathering spots. Core aeration (pulling plugs) improves water penetration and oxygen flow, and it pairs well with overseeding. Spring (April/May) or fall (September/October) are typically the best windows.

Troubleshooting: what Nampa lawns commonly struggle with

Dry spots, brown corners, and “striping” that won’t go away

This is often coverage—not fertilizer. Mixed spray heads, clogged nozzles, and misaligned rotors create hotspots that show up fast in July/August. A sprinkler tune-up can be the difference between a stressed lawn and a stable one.

Thin turf and constant weeds

Weeds love open space. If your lawn is thin, weed control alone can feel like a treadmill. Pair selective weed treatments with practices that build density: proper mowing height, aeration, and fall overseeding.

Pests around patios, foundations, and entry points

Many homeowners notice seasonal spikes in spiders and other nuisance pests as temperatures change. A barrier-style approach around the perimeter can help reduce indoor sightings while keeping the yard more comfortable for kids and pets.

Patchy areas that peel up easily (possible grub activity)

Not every brown patch is grubs—irrigation and heat stress are more common—but if turf lifts like loose carpet and you see C-shaped larvae in the soil, it’s time to act. Preventive timing and the right product choice matter for good control.

Related read: Treasure Valley Lawn Maintenance Guide

If you want a broader “roadmap” view, Barefoot Lawns also put together a local checklist that aligns well with Boise, Meridian, and Nampa conditions.

Local angle: what’s unique about lawn maintenance in Nampa

Nampa lawns often deal with a mix of summer heat, compacted soils, and irrigation quirks (especially in newer neighborhoods where grading and sprinkler layouts vary from yard to yard). That’s why the “big three” for local success are:

• Seasonal watering adjustments (not a fixed schedule all year)
• Fall-first thinking (aeration + fertilization + weed control when lawns rebound best)
• Equipment and application accuracy (sharp blades, calibrated spreaders, correct watering-in for granular products)

If you’re ever unsure, a quick on-site evaluation usually pinpoints whether the problem is watering coverage, soil compaction, nutrient timing, or pest pressure—each needs a different fix.

Want a lawn plan you don’t have to babysit?

Barefoot Lawns helps homeowners across Nampa and the Treasure Valley with consistent lawn maintenance, aeration, weed control, grub control, sprinkler service, and eco-friendly pest management—so your yard stays thick and healthy through the full season.

FAQ: Lawn Maintenance in Nampa, ID

When should I apply crabgrass pre-emergent in Nampa?

In the Treasure Valley, crabgrass can start germinating when soil temperatures reach about 55–60°F, which often occurs around mid-March to early April. Applying pre-emergent before that window helps stop it before it starts.

How much should I water my lawn in summer?

Many cool-season lawns in our area may need up to about 2 inches of water per week during peak summer heat (late May through mid-August), and closer to about 1 inch per week in cooler spring/fall periods. The best schedule depends on sun exposure, soil type, and sprinkler coverage.

Is fall fertilization really that important?

Yes. Fall feeding supports root growth and energy storage going into winter, which typically improves spring green-up and density. Many Treasure Valley plans target late September through early November, depending on weather and the first freeze timing.

Should I aerate in spring or fall?

Both can work. Spring (April/May) and fall (September/October) are common because turf is actively growing and can recover faster. Fall is especially popular if you’re also overseeding.

What’s the fastest way to tell if my lawn problem is irrigation vs. fertilizer?

If the pattern matches sprinkler coverage (edges, corners, or a consistent arc shape), it’s usually irrigation. If the issue is uniform across the entire lawn, it may be fertility, mowing height, or seasonal stress.

Glossary (quick, plain-English)

Pre-emergent

A treatment applied before weed seeds germinate; it helps prevent weeds like crabgrass from sprouting.

Post-emergent

A weed control product used after weeds are already visible and growing.

Core aeration

A service that removes small plugs of soil to reduce compaction and improve water, air, and nutrient movement into the root zone.

Cool-season turf

Lawn grasses that grow best in spring and fall (common across Nampa/Boise), and slow down during hot summer weather.

Thatch

A layer of dead stems and roots that can build up between soil and grass blades. Too much thatch can reduce water penetration and increase stress.

Treasure Valley Lawn Maintenance: A Year-Round Plan for a Thicker, Greener Lawn in Caldwell, Idaho

A practical schedule that matches how Idaho lawns actually grow

In Caldwell and across the Treasure Valley, most lawns are built around cool-season grasses that surge in spring and fall, then slow down in summer heat. That growth pattern is why “more fertilizer in spring” and “watering every day in July” often backfires. A better approach is simple: feed and strengthen the lawn when it wants to grow, protect it when stress is highest, and keep irrigation and mowing consistent. This guide lays out a homeowner-friendly, month-by-month lawn maintenance plan that fits local conditions—plus the fastest fixes for thinning turf, weeds, and patchy dry spots.

Why lawn maintenance in Caldwell is different than “generic lawn tips”

The Treasure Valley’s hot, dry summers and cool-season turfgrass mix mean your lawn’s biggest success factor is timing. Cool-season grasses do most of their root-building and recovery when soil temps are moderate—especially in early fall. When fertilizing, watering, aerating, and weed prevention line up with that window, lawns thicken naturally and resist weeds with fewer inputs. When they don’t, lawns often get stuck in a cycle of summer stress, thinning, and weed pressure.
Quick local takeaway
For cool-season lawns, spring feeding should be measured (avoid pushing tender growth too hard), while late-summer/early-fall feeding and aeration are where you usually see the best “thickening” results. University of Idaho Extension notes cool-season grasses grow fastest in spring/fall and recommends avoiding heavy summer fertilization; it also highlights fall as a preferred aeration window for many Idaho lawns. (uidaho.edu)

The Caldwell lawn maintenance calendar (month-by-month)

Use this as a planning checklist. Weather shifts year to year, so treat the “when” as a window—then adjust based on growth, soil moisture, and irrigation performance.
Season What to do What to avoid
Late Winter (Feb–Mar) Clean up debris, check for matted snow mold areas, sharpen mower blade, and plan irrigation repairs before the rush. Don’t “force green-up” with heavy nitrogen while soil is cold.
Spring (Apr–May) Start mowing as growth begins; tune watering schedule; apply pre-emergent for annual grassy weeds timed to soil warming; spot-treat broadleaf weeds. Avoid scalping and avoid over-fertilizing early—cool-season turf can burn through stored reserves too fast. (uidaho.edu)
Early Summer (Jun) Mow consistently; adjust irrigation for hotter weeks; watch for sprinkler coverage gaps that create “dry arcs” and brown stripes. Don’t cut more than 1/3 of the blade at once (it shocks turf and invites stress).
Peak Summer (Jul–Aug) Prioritize irrigation efficiency and mowing height; consider grub monitoring and targeted treatments if damage appears; keep foot traffic lower on stressed areas. Avoid heavy nitrogen in extreme heat; University of Idaho Extension advises against over-fertilizing in summer because it can harm turf. (uidaho.edu)
Prime Recovery Window (Late Aug–Oct) Core aeration, overseeding/repair, and the most effective fertilizer applications for thickening cool-season lawns; continue weed control while weeds are actively moving energy to roots. Don’t wait until “first freeze” to do repairs—seed needs time to establish.
Late Fall (Oct–Nov) Reduce watering frequency; final mow; winterize irrigation (blow-out) to prevent freeze damage; late fall fertilization can support spring green-up when done correctly. (uidaho.edu) Avoid “set it and forget it” sprinkler timers into fall—cooler weather usually needs much less water. (uidaho.edu)

Step-by-step: the “core four” that makes lawns look professionally maintained

1) Mow for density (not for speed)

Set your mowing height so the lawn shades the soil (this helps with moisture retention and weed suppression). Keep blades sharp and aim for consistent cuts. A simple rule that prevents shock: never remove more than 1/3 of the blade at one mowing. If you missed a week, raise the mower and “step down” over two cuts.

2) Water to train deeper roots

In summer, many cool-season lawns in Idaho can use significantly more water than in spring/fall. University of Idaho Extension notes that during late May to mid-August, lawns may use about 2 inches of water per week (and closer to ~1 inch per week in cooler spring periods). (uidaho.edu)

Quick irrigation check you can do today
Place 6–10 straight-sided containers (like tuna cans) around a zone, run sprinklers for 15 minutes, and measure the depth. Big differences usually mean clogged nozzles, mismatched heads, poor pressure, or a coverage gap that needs adjustment.

3) Fertilize with the seasons (and don’t “push” summer growth)

For cool-season lawns, light spring feeding helps color without exhausting the plant, while late summer through fall feedings support recovery and root/rhizome energy storage. University of Idaho Extension specifically cautions that over-fertilizing in spring can drain stored reserves and that heavy summer fertilization can be detrimental; it also provides an Idaho-friendly timing schedule for nitrogen applications by grass type. (uidaho.edu)

4) Aerate when it counts (then seed and feed)

If your lawn feels compacted, puddles during watering, or struggles in high-traffic areas, core aeration opens the soil for better water and oxygen movement. University of Idaho Extension notes that most home lawns benefit from core cultivation at least once per year, with fall often preferred (spring is also workable). (uidaho.edu)

Want professional help with this step? Learn about Barefoot Lawns’ core aeration service and how it supports deeper roots and stronger turf.

Common Caldwell lawn problems (and the most reliable fixes)

Patchy brown areas
Most often: uneven sprinkler coverage, compacted soil, or shallow roots from frequent light watering. Start with a coverage test, then consider aeration and a watering schedule that soaks deeper (less frequent, longer run times).
If you suspect irrigation issues, see our sprinkler service and repair options.
Weeds that “won’t quit”
Winning against weeds is less about chasing them and more about prevention and density. Pre-emergent timing helps stop annual grassy weeds before they germinate, and a thick lawn shades out new seedlings. Idaho Extension notes that crabgrass can germinate as soil temps reach roughly 55–60°F and emphasizes applying pre-emergents before germination. (uidaho.edu)
For a predictable, seasonally timed approach, explore the Barefoot Lawn Care Program.
Grub damage concerns
Grub activity can show up as spongy turf that peels up easily or irregular dead patches that don’t respond to watering. Confirm the cause before treating—then use a targeted control plan.
If you want a professional assessment and treatment, visit our grub control service page.
Outdoor pests around the home
Perimeter and yard pests can spike seasonally. A barrier-style approach and smart habitat reduction (debris cleanup, trimming, moisture control) helps reduce pressure without overdoing treatments.
Learn about Barefoot Lawns’ family- and pet-conscious pest control services.

Did you know? Fast facts that save lawns in the Treasure Valley

Cool-season lawns don’t love heavy summer feeding
Extension guidance warns that over-fertilizing during summer heat can stress turf and even cause dieback—slow-release and lighter approaches are safer when it’s hot. (uidaho.edu)
Fall aeration often outperforms spring aeration
Fall conditions help holes stay open without extreme heat, and many weeds are less competitive than in spring. (uidaho.edu)
Your mower is a lawn-care tool, not just a chore
Consistent mowing at the right height encourages turf to spread and thicken—one of the most underrated “weed control” strategies.

Local angle: what Caldwell homeowners should prioritize

Caldwell lawns often face a summer combo of heat + wind + low humidity, which increases water demand and can expose sprinkler weak spots quickly. If your lawn looks uneven by mid-July, it’s usually not a “fertilizer problem”—it’s a coverage and consistency problem. The most effective local strategy is to:
• Audit sprinkler performance early (before the hottest stretch), and fix low-coverage zones.
• Mow a little higher in summer to reduce stress and conserve moisture.
• Use late August through October for aeration, overseeding, and recovery feeding.
• Winterize irrigation on time to avoid costly freeze damage.
If you want help planning a season-by-season approach, browse Barefoot Lawns services to see what can be bundled into a simple annual plan.

Want a dependable, local lawn maintenance plan in Caldwell?

Barefoot Lawns provides year-round lawn care across the Treasure Valley—fertilization and weed control timing, aeration, grub control, pest management, sprinkler maintenance, and tree care—so your yard stays consistent without constant guesswork.

FAQ: Lawn maintenance in Caldwell, Idaho

How often should I water my lawn in the Treasure Valley?
It depends on heat, sun exposure, soil, and sprinkler coverage. As a general benchmark, University of Idaho Extension notes many cool-season lawns in Idaho use about 1 inch/week in cooler spring periods and around 2 inches/week during late May through mid-August, with less again as fall cools. (uidaho.edu)
Is fall really the best time to aerate in Caldwell?
Often, yes. Extension guidance notes fall is frequently preferred because the holes aren’t exposed to extreme summer heat and weed pressure can be lower than spring; spring can work too if you avoid peak heat and keep up with watering. (uidaho.edu)
Why does my lawn get weedy every summer even after I fertilize?
Fertilizer doesn’t prevent weeds by itself. Most weed “breakthrough” happens when turf thins due to stress (heat, mowing too short, uneven irrigation) and bare soil is exposed. Pair consistent mowing + irrigation with timely weed prevention and targeted spot treatments.
Should I fertilize in the middle of summer?
Be cautious. University of Idaho Extension warns that over-fertilization in summer can be detrimental to turf health; if you need color, lighter applications and slow-release products are typically safer than heavy nitrogen when it’s hot. (uidaho.edu)
When should I stop watering and winterize sprinklers?
It varies by year. Many homeowners reduce watering significantly in fall and continue only as needed until colder temperatures approach. University of Idaho Extension notes lawns use much less water in fall than summer and that some parts of Idaho may irrigate into late October or even early November depending on temperatures—then schedule a blow-out before freezing conditions. (uidaho.edu)

Glossary (quick definitions)

Cool-season grass
Turf types that grow best in spring and fall (common across Idaho), slowing down in summer heat. (uidaho.edu)
Core aeration
A process that pulls small soil plugs from the lawn to reduce compaction and improve water and oxygen movement into the root zone.
Pre-emergent
A weed control product applied before weed seeds germinate to prevent new weeds (commonly used for crabgrass control). (uidaho.edu)
Thatch
A layer of dead and living organic matter between grass blades and soil that can block water if it becomes too thick.

Year-Round Lawn Maintenance in Meridian, Idaho: A Practical Month-by-Month Guide for a Thicker, Greener Yard

A lawn plan built for Treasure Valley weather (not generic lawn advice)

Meridian lawns deal with real seasonal swings: cool, vigorous growth in spring and fall; heat and drought stress in summer; then freezing temps that can punish sprinkler systems and weak turf. The easiest way to get consistent results is to match your lawn maintenance to the cool-season grass growth cycle common in Idaho and to time weed prevention, fertilization, aeration, irrigation checks, and pest control when they’ll actually work.

Quick local reality: Treasure Valley lawns are primarily cool-season grasses, which grow most actively in spring and fall (often best when soils are roughly 55–65°F). That’s why your biggest “wins” happen with smart spring timing and a strong fall recovery plan.

The Meridian lawn maintenance calendar (what to focus on, season by season)

Use this as a checklist—then adjust based on your lawn’s sun exposure, soil compaction, and irrigation coverage. If your yard is shaded, compacted, or gets heavy foot traffic, you’ll lean more heavily on aeration and irrigation tuning.

Season (Meridian) Primary goals Best actions
Late Winter → Early Spring Wake the lawn up without pushing weak growth Light spring feeding (if needed), early irrigation inspection, pre-emergent planning
Mid Spring Stop weeds before they start; build density Pre-emergent timing, spot weed control, consistent mowing
Summer Prevent drought stress, disease, and pest issues Deep, infrequent watering; mower height adjustments; grub/pest monitoring; minimal fertilizer
Fall Repair, thicken, and store energy for winter Core aeration, overseeding (as needed), fall fertilizer, sprinkler blowout scheduling
Winter Protect systems; avoid turf damage Limit traffic on frozen turf; plan spring services; tree/shrub care prep

Note: In the Treasure Valley, crabgrass tends to germinate when soil temperatures reach about 55–60°F—often around mid-March to early April—so pre-emergent timing matters more than “the date on the calendar.”

Why “right timing” matters more than “more product”

Most lawn frustration in Meridian comes from doing the right thing at the wrong time—especially fertilizing too hard in spring or skipping fall recovery. For cool-season turf, over-fertilizing in spring can encourage fast top growth while draining energy reserves needed for summer heat. By late summer into early fall, the plant is naturally shifting energy into roots and storage, which is why fall fertilization is such a strong “return on effort.”

That’s also why aeration is so effective here when timed during active growth (spring or fall). It relieves compaction so water and nutrients move into the root zone instead of running off or evaporating.

Step-by-step: a simple lawn maintenance routine that works in Meridian

1) Start with mowing (it’s the foundation)

Keep blades sharp and avoid cutting more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time. In summer heat, raise your mowing height to protect crowns and shade the soil—this helps reduce water stress and suppress some weeds naturally.

2) Use pre-emergent the smart way (not as a guess)

Pre-emergent is preventative. Once crabgrass and other annual grassy weeds sprout, you’ve missed the easiest control window. In the Treasure Valley, that application window typically lines up with mid-March to early April when soils approach 55–60°F.

3) Water deeply, less often (and confirm coverage)

Shallow daily watering trains shallow roots. A better approach is deep, infrequent watering that encourages roots to chase moisture downward. If parts of your lawn stay dry or you see “hot spots,” it’s often a sprinkler coverage issue—not a fertilizer problem.

Homeowner test: Place 6–10 identical cups around a zone and run it for 10 minutes. If the fill levels vary a lot, you’ll get patchy growth no matter how good your fertilizer is.

4) Aerate when your lawn can rebound

In Meridian, core aeration is most productive during active growth windows: spring (roughly March–May) and fall (September–October). Fall often wins because the lawn is recovering from summer stress and can build roots heading into winter.

If your soil is compacted (hard to push a screwdriver into the ground) or you see puddling after irrigation, aeration can be a game-changer.

Did you know? Quick facts that help you make better lawn decisions

Pre-emergent timing is tied to soil temperature—not air temperature. That’s why one warm week doesn’t mean you’re “late,” and one cold snap doesn’t mean you’re “early.”

Fall fertilization supports root energy storage, which often shows up as earlier green-up and thicker turf the following spring.

A sprinkler system can “work” and still water poorly if heads are misaligned, nozzles are worn, or zones aren’t matched to sun exposure.

Local angle: Meridian-specific reminders (Treasure Valley lawns & irrigation)

Meridian’s hot, dry stretches can stress cool-season grass. That’s why summer lawn maintenance is more about water management, mowing height, and targeted pest monitoring than pushing growth with heavy fertilizer.

For irrigation, sprinkler winterization (blowouts) are typically scheduled in the fall before a hard freeze. Many Treasure Valley homeowners aim for an October appointment so they’re protected if temperatures drop unexpectedly.

If you want help coordinating the “big three” that impact Meridian lawns the most—weed prevention, aeration, and sprinkler performance—it’s usually best to plan those together rather than treating them as separate projects.

Explore services that support this calendar: year-round lawn care programs, core aeration, and sprinkler maintenance & blowouts.

Want a dependable lawn plan for your Meridian property?

Barefoot Lawns is locally owned, eco-conscious, and built for Treasure Valley conditions—fertilization, weed control, aeration, grub control, sprinkler service, pest management, and tree care, without the guesswork.

FAQ: Meridian lawn maintenance

How often should I aerate my lawn in Meridian?

Many Treasure Valley lawns do well with aeration every 1–2 years, especially if you have compacted soil, heavy foot traffic, or patchy dry areas. Spring (March–May) and fall (September–October) are typically the best windows.

When should I apply pre-emergent in the Treasure Valley?

Pre-emergent should be down before annual grassy weeds germinate. Locally, crabgrass germination often aligns with soil temps around 55–60°F—commonly mid-March to early April—so that’s the window many homeowners plan around.

What’s the biggest mistake homeowners make with fertilizer?

Over-fertilizing in spring or fertilizing heavily during summer heat. Cool-season lawns can look great briefly, then struggle when temperatures rise. A balanced plan usually includes lighter spring feeding (if needed) and a stronger fall focus.

How do I know if my sprinkler coverage is hurting my lawn?

Look for repeating dry patches that don’t respond to fertilizer, runoff on slopes or near sidewalks, or areas that stay soggy. A simple cup test across a zone can show uneven distribution fast.

Should I worry about grubs in Meridian?

If you notice sections that peel up like carpet, thinning that worsens despite watering, or increased bird/skunk activity, it’s worth checking. Targeted grub control can stop root feeding before damage spreads. If you’d like help, see our grub control service.

Glossary (quick definitions)

Cool-season grass: Grass types that grow most actively in spring and fall; common across Idaho lawns.

Pre-emergent: A weed control product applied before weed seeds germinate to prevent growth (not designed to kill mature weeds).

Core aeration: Removing small plugs of soil to relieve compaction and improve movement of water, oxygen, and nutrients into the root zone.

Sprinkler blowout (winterization): Clearing irrigation lines with compressed air before freezing temperatures to help prevent cracked pipes, valves, and heads.